During our extended stay in North Wales after the Quest, we went for a comparatively short stroll around the beautiful village of Beddgelert. Sitting snugly among the mountains of Snowdonia, this quaint little place offers some awe-inspiring views, but for many visitors the real attraction is the site of a medieval dog’s grave and its lasting legend.
We wandered through the village, making our way towards the bridge at its heart, where we crossed over and then followed the course of the River Glaslyn. Today though, it wasn’t so much a walk as a ‘Templeton ten-foot stop’ as we call them when, owing to one distraction or another, progress is slow. This time we couldn’t walk far without pausing to either drink in the scenery or photograph it. Everywhere you look is gorgeous. The framing mountains stand like giant guardians around Beddgelert, and I have to admit to having a real soft spot for ‘rivers with rocks in’, another of my wandering terms. There’s something very magical about water gushing around rocks and boulders, especially when the banks are lined with moss-covered trees and ancient woodland.
With all this natural beauty, it’s unsurprising that this is a place of significant religious and mystical origins. On one side lies Dinas Emrys, an important site in Welsh mythology where the stories of Merlin and the Welsh red dragon were born, and on the other is Gwlad y Tylwyth Teg, the legendary land of the fairies. It’s worth pointing out here that these weren’t the pretty, tiny winged people of popular fantasy, but an ancient form of non-human, mischievous child-sized folk that long ago were a powerful aspect of the local people’s beliefs.
Eventually, after capturing as much of the scenery as we could on camera, we crossed back over another bridge alongside a stretch of the Welsh Mountain Railway, and followed the gently winding path that returns to the village. It was on this stretch that we found the all-important final resting place of the 13th century faithful hound.
According to local tradition, Gelert was the favourite hunting dog and loyal companion of Llewelyn ab Iorweth, or Llewelyn ‘the Great’, the grandfather of Llywelyn ap Gruffudd of my Welsh Quest fame, who cropped up in the Conwy Castle post. The story goes that he once had a hunting lodge here, and one day he went on an expedition without Gelert. On his return, he was greeted by the hound but saw blood on his fangs and his baby’s bed overturned. There was no sign of the child but after finding more spilled blood, Llywelyn leapt to the conclusion that Gelert had killed his young son. Without thinking, he plunged his sword into Gelert’s side. With a pitying cry the dog died, and the sound woke the baby who was hidden under the bed, asleep and unharmed. Further investigation in the next room revealed a dead wolf that had entered the house during the master’s absence. Gelert had, in fact, saved the baby and slain the true predator. When Llywelyn realised his mistake he became distraught and inconsolable, and is said never to have smiled again. He raised a fine tomb with a sculpture as a tribute to the beloved hound he’d betrayed by acting in haste.
Of course, it’s a legend that has little basis in reality. It’s a moral, cautionary tale about acting on impulse. Similar stories have been told across the centuries and across the world, of heroic pets meeting an untimely end at the hands of their erroneous owners who bitterly regret their hasty actions as the truth is uncovered. One such fable dates from the 1st Century AD, involving a Hindu priest leaving his baby in the charge of his beloved mongoose with the same outcome, only this time the real offender was a black cobra.
But with such a rich mystical heritage enveloping this quietly captivating place, it’s hardly surprising that the timeless tale has so firmly dug its paws in here. The story is even reflected in the village’s name which means ‘Gelert’s grave’. But whatever lies behind the legend, it’s impossible not to be moved by the faithful hound’s tranquil burial place beside its guardian trees, as his memorial keeps an eternal vigil nearby. And there’s no denying the sense of melancholic peace that imbues this little haven and it’s hauntingly beautiful setting. It wouldn’t be a bad place to spend eternity…
Great to see another post my Love ❤ and what lovely memories 😀 It was a great walk that and you and Maddie took some super photos!
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I’m really missing it. And it was difficult to choose from the 200-odd photos of the place! 😉
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Me too! 😦 I wish we could go back.
200’s not many – and that’s not including the film photo’s I took 😀
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Forgot about that…
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😀
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I have tears in my eyes. I love Gelert and if it happens I get another dog, that will be his name. It might be a myth, but a dog would do that. ❤
Beautiful, beautiful scenery.
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Thank you, Martha. I always thought Gelert would be a great name for a dog too. Thanks for your kind comments, and I’m glad you liked the pictures. 🙂 ❤
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‘Templeton ten-foot stop’ made me smile 🙂 We have a lot of those kind of walks too! Oh the scenery is beautiful! The pictures are great but I bet it was even more stunning in person. What a tale about the dog. I was so sad and then so relieved that it was a story, not in fact true but to send a message. It’s a good one though!
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Thanks Robyn. Glad you enjoyed it. Yes, it is even more stunning ‘in the flesh’ as it were. And they’ve captured the legend perfectly in the setting.
Glad you like the ‘Templeton ten-foot stop’. 😀
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I do love that area…
We were going to walk out to Gelert’s Grave last time we were there, but it was high summer and we could not find a single place to park in or near the village.
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It’s really worth doing the walk next time you’re out that way. I guess we were lucky with parking on the day we went there, as it had been raining quite a bit before we arrived so it wasn’t overly busy. The low clouds made it even more atmospheric. 🙂
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It was a scorcher when we were there…plus we had a workshop that weekend, so time was tight.
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Ah, that explains it then. 🙂
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We managed a fair few side trips on that weekend though 😉
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We’ll have to compare notes when we meet up. I thought of you earlier today as I drove through Waddesdon. 🙂
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We really must sort out a time 😉
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The kids go back to school next week, so if you’re around during the day any time between about 10am and 2.30pm let me know. 🙂
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I can make time most weekdays 😉
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Excellent! How about the week after next, when the dust has settled? I’ll see what I’ve got on and we’ll sort out a time. 🙂
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It would have to be the front end of the week as I have a workshop the following weekend 🙂
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No problems. I’ll check there’s nothing I need to do at school and try for Mon or Tues then. I’ll get back to you. 🙂
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That would be cool. 🙂
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Lovely blog. Re-reading Borrow’s Wild Wales at the moment. This reminds me of that.
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Thanks John, I’m glad you enjoyed it. You’re reading the right book for Beddgelert then! And talking of reading, I thoroughly enjoyed Loxley. Another great story, well told. 🙂
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Thank you Alli.
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Great scenery, lovely tale about Gelert and some smashing photos to go with it. It’s good to see you back blogging again Alli.
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Thanks for your kind words, Malc. It’s good to be back. Glad you enjoyed the tale and the scenery. It’s a very beautiful place. 🙂
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What a wonderful story and photographs. The place looks utterly magical.
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Thanks, Suzanne. It is a very special place. 🙂
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Such a beautiful spot. Really lovely photos. I’ve been away so a bit behind on reading about your adventure this summer, but will get caught up 🙂
Cheers, Amy
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Thanks Amy. It is a very beautiful area. I hope you had a good time while you were away. Did you go abroad? Glad you liked the photos. 🙂
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We were on a two-week road trip that included the Black Forest, Munich, Salzburg, Nuremberg, and Brussels. A lot to see and do, I really enjoyed it.
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I’ve heard this story and the one about the mongoose too I think. So sad, even though it’s a story it still brings tears to my eyes.
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You’re not alone there, Vanda. It brings tears to my eyes too! Even though you know it’s just a story this place, with it’s special atmosphere, somehow makes you believe it, and it brings a big lump to the throat. 🙂
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Wonderful! Enjoyed the wander, the photos and the tale of Gelert! I need to visit. Did you know he has a French cousin, St Guinefort?
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Glad you enjoyed it, Mike. It really is worth a visit. No I didn’t know about St Guinefort, although I have to say it doesn’t surprise me. Hope you get to see Gelert’s grave and its amazing setting. 🙂
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Welcome back Alli. Lovely post and pictures.
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Thank you, Albert, and thanks for the kind comments. I’m glad you enjoyed our wander around Beddgelert. 🙂
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I only visited the grave once despite my many visits to Beddgelert (one of my favourite spots in Snowdonia – love the shops there too) – I just found the story too sad. I always visited the Pass of Aberglaslyn though (as you seem to have on your walk) when the rhododendrons were out – beautiful spot!
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It is indeed a gorgeous area, Carol. As for the grave, I know what you mean. Even though you know it’s only a story you can’t help being affected by it. It gets me every time, and I had a huge lump in my throat being there, and my daughter was choking back the tears. It’s still a lovely place though, and very moving and tranquil. 🙂
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oh my goodness I can see how distractions happen – and let them come…
also love this:
Templeton ten-foot stop
hahha
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It was pretty awe-inspiring. Ten-foot at a time was about our limit! 🙂
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😊
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The story about Gelert is a very sad and, as you say, cautionary story about jumping to conclusions. I visited Beddgelert for the first time this year and it really does feel like a magical place. Such a lovely place to visit. 🙂
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Thanks for reading, Clare. I’m glad you enjoyed Beddgelert too. It is indeed a bit of a magical place, so you’ll understand why we had a ‘Templeton ten-foot stop’ walk! 🙂
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Thanks Sue! 😊💜
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